1. Unwrinkle clothes in the dryer

Curious how to get wrinkles out of clothes without spending your whole morning tending to each garment? Toss ’em in the dryer. First, check your garments’ labels for the laundry symbols to determine whether you can safely machine dry them. If you can, spritz the items with water and toss them in with a damp item or two (like damp socks). You can even throw a couple of ice cubes into the dryer. When they melt, they give off steam that’ll help your garments ditch their wrinkles. Spin for about 15 minutes on medium.

2. Use a hair dryer to get wrinkles out of clothes

Lay the wrinkled item on a flat surface and blast hot air with your hair dryer. Keep the dryer a couple of inches above the fabric, and cover the front and back of the garment. Like magic, the wrinkles will disappear before your eyes. You can spritz or flick a few drops of water on the item before blowing it dry to help soften it. For more laundry hacks, check out these creative uses for dryer sheets.

3. Steam away wrinkles in the shower

You know how to hand-wash clothes when you’re away from home. Now learn how to unwrinkle a shirt when you’re traveling. Hang the wrinkled item in the bathroom and turn on the shower, using the hottest water. Shut the door to create a sauna effect. Check back in about 10 minutes but understand it may take up to 20 minutes to completely remove the wrinkles. If you’re hanging the garment on the shower rod, be sure the showerhead is facing away from it to avoid getting your clothing item wet.

4. Use a hair straightener to unwrinkle clothing

The best dryer sheets can help you avoid wrinkles. But that’s not always enough—especially if you’ve stuffed your clothes in a suitcase. A flat iron works really well on stubborn wrinkles, especially for hard-to-iron areas like collars, cuffs, and sleeves. Just make sure your device isn’t rusty, stained with hair products, or holding loose hairs. And be careful of the heat setting and the pressure you use. You don’t want to damage your clothing or burn yourself.

5. Release wrinkles with a damp towel

This is such a simple method, but it totally works. On a flat surface, place a damp towel over the wrinkled clothing. Use your hands to press down and smooth out deep creases. Hang the item to air dry. Prior to leaving for your event, check yourself for stray hairs and lint balls—and remove pilling on clothes before you walk out the door.

6. Use a wrinkle-release spray

Keep a bottle of professional wrinkle-release spray in your laundry room for quick fixes. Wondering how to get wrinkles out of clothes while you’re on the go? It’s won’t weigh down your luggage.

7. Try spray vinegar

You can actually make your own DIY wrinkle-release spray using white vinegar. It’s a cheap, gentle, and chemical-free alternative. Mist the wrinkled garment with a mix of one part vinegar and three parts water, then let it air dry. Vinegar in laundry is a great way to deodorize and clean clothes.

8. Steam out wrinkles with a tea kettle

Don’t have a steamer on hand? Learn how to get wrinkles out of clothes with nothing but a teapot. Boil water in a tea kettle, then hold your clothing item about a foot away from the steam. Voilà! Wrinkles are gone. Next, find out how to get a smell out of clothes.

9. Make an iron out of a pot

Boil water in a metal pot. Once it reaches a rolling boil, toss the water. You’re going to use the bottom of the pot as an iron to smooth out the wrinkles in your garment. Make sure the bottom of the pot is clean, though, and be careful because it’s going to be hot. Next time you do a load of laundry, toss some dryer balls to speed up the process.

10.Tuck it under a mattress

Here’s how to get wrinkles out of clothes with nothing but your mattress. Lay your garment on a flat surface, smooth out the wrinkles, and then roll it like a burrito. Slide your fabric burrito under the mattress and wait 15 to 30 minutes. Remove it and—surprise!—no more wrinkles.

Ironing is supposed to unwrinkle your clothes and make them look better. But when you notice brown stains on your garments or a funky smell on freshly pressed items, it’s time to pull out your cleaning tools. That’s when knowing how to clean an iron comes in handy.

Be sure to first check the manufacturer’s instructions for cleaning recommendations in case there are dos and don’ts for your specific model.

1. How to clean an iron with newspaper and salt

Iron And Salt On Newspaper

This may sound weird, but it works! The coarseness of the salt acts like sandpaper to remove marks and grime.

Set your iron to warm.
Place a piece of newspaper on the ironing board.
Sprinkle a thin layer of salt on the newspaper.
Quickly run the warm iron over the salt in a circular motion.
Repeat, adding more salt as needed.
Unplug your iron and let it cool completely.
Use a damp microfiber cloth to remove the remaining dirt and salt from the iron.

2. How to clean an iron with baking soda

Cleaning Iron With Toothbrush and baking soda paste
A safe and natural multitasker, baking soda has so many surprising uses, including cleaning your iron.
Create a paste by mixing two parts baking soda to one part water.
Cover the iron plate with the baking soda paste. Be careful not to get it in the steam vents.
Leave it on for a few minutes, then scrub it with a clean toothbrush.
Use a damp microfiber cloth to wipe it clean.

3. How to clean an iron with vinegar

Vinegar is another miracle cleaner. Use it alone if your iron shows signs of corrosion, such as rust stains, which can be caused by water left in the reservoir. Or pair it with baking soda to get rid of almost any buildup (more on how to do that below).

For corrosion:
Soak a clean towel in vinegar.
Place your iron, with the plate facing down, on the towel. Let it sit for 30 minutes.
Wipe the iron down.
For scorch marks:
Dampen a clean microfiber cloth with vinegar.
Wipe the scorch marks with the damp cloth.Use a clean part of the cloth to keep wiping the marks until they’re gone.

4. How to clean an iron with baking soda and vinegar

Baking soda and vinegar are cleaning staples, and together, they’re a powerful—and safe—combination.

Create a paste by mixing equal parts vinegar and baking soda (or salt).
Dip a clean microfiber cloth into the paste.
Use the cloth to rub the paste in small circles around the iron plate.
Dip another clean microfiber cloth into distilled water (this is especially important if you have hard water) and wipe off the paste until the iron is clean.

5. How to clean an iron with toothpaste

Cleaning Iron With Cotton Swab and toothpaste
Because of its abrasive ingredients used to clean teeth, toothpaste is a good option for cleaning scorch marks off your iron’s soleplate. For best results—for both the iron and your teeth—you may want to use a toothpaste that contains baking soda.

Use a cotton swab to rub a little plain white toothpaste into any scorch marks. Try to avoid getting the toothpaste in the steam vents.

Wipe off the paste with a damp microfiber cloth.
If toothpaste gets into the steam vents, fill the water tank with distilled water, place the iron in an upright position on a towel on your ironing board, and set the iron to steam. Let it sit for a few minutes. Then hold the steam button for about 20 seconds to release the toothpaste. Wipe it with a damp cloth and repeat until the steam is flowing freely.

6. How to clean an iron with Tylenol

Yes, the same Tylenol (or any white acetaminophen tablet) you take for headaches also works wonders on a rusty iron. There’s a whole science behind it, but all you really need to know is that it works.

Set your iron to the highest heat setting and let it heat up.
Wearing an oven mitt to avoid burning yourself, rub the pill onto the stain. The heat will melt the pill and turn it into a gel, which will dissolve the stain. Some people recommend using tweezers to hold the pill, but that’s not ideal. If your tweezers scrape the soleplate, they can scratch it permanently.
Repeat as necessary.
Place a clean, damp microfiber cloth on your ironing board and rub the hot iron over it to remove the residue.

7. How to clean an iron with dryer sheets

Thanks to their light abrasiveness, dryer sheets can also double as iron cleaners.
Get your iron to the lowest setting. You just need a little heat.
Wearing an oven mitt, rub the dryer sheet over the soleplate to remove any gunk.
Repeat as necessary.

8. How to clean an iron with nail polish remover

Acetone nail polish remover will also remove residue from your soleplate but should be used outside—or at the very least with the windows open—so you don’t breathe in the chemical fumes.

Heat your iron to high.
Turn it off once it gets hot.
Dip a cotton ball or cotton pad into acetone nail polish remover.
Using an oven mitt, wipe the cotton along the hot iron to dissolve any black gunk.
Finish by using a damp cloth over the surface.

9. How to clean an iron with a Magic Eraser

There’s a reason it’s called a Magic Eraser: It magically erases all kinds of stains, including hard water spots on your soleplate.
Wet your Magic Eraser.
Rub it on the stains or spots.
Repeat as necessary.

The last thing you want to find in your custom closets is mold or mildew. All these fungi need to grow is a damp surface, whether it’s wood, paper, fabric, carpeting, or another material. While mold can grow anywhere in your house, your closets provide the perfect environment — dark, confined, damp, poor ventilation, and no circulating air. 

One of the best solutions for removing mold is to stop it from growing in the first place. 

You can do this by controlling the moisture and humidity levels in your closets.

To protect your closets and wardrobe, follow the tips in this article to keep mold and mildew away.

Clean can mean anything from “unsoiled/unstained” to “pure and pollution-free.” Despite this, no mention of fragrance is made. Cosmetics and personal care goods, as well as candles, cleaning products, hand soaps, laundry products, and air fresheners, all contain the aroma.

The History of Scent

Over time, scents have become one of the main components of what we deem as “clean.” The history of using fragrances spans the centuries. Egyptians used perfumed balms as part of religious ceremonies, and myrrh and frankincense were used in many rituals. World explorations were launched to bring back robust scented plants that could be used for both medicine and pleasure.

When consumers used homemade lye soap to clean clothes long ago, they removed soil as well as odors from bodies and stains, and to add more scent, bundles of dried lavender were tucked into the trunks of clothing to make clothes smell better.

Interpreting a Clean Scent

The sense of smell is perhaps the most powerful of our five senses. A particular fragrance or odor can evoke memories and emotions that have long been tucked away. Research has shown that there is an anatomical basis for this.1 The sense of smell is directly plugged into the human limbic system of the brain, the region where emotions and memories also reside.

Fragrances contribute to feelings of happiness, relaxation, or stimulation, as well as feelings of irritation, depression, and apathy. We also associate qualities to scents; cinnamon reminds us of baking and “home.” That’s why certain fragrance memories make us interpret clothes as smelling “clean,” cosmetics as smelling “pretty,” and households as smelling “well-kept.”

The Cleanest Home Scents

For many of us, the smell of chlorine bleach or pine-scented disinfectant equates to a clean house. Scientists in research and development have zeroed in on scent clues that are used to teach consumers the “smell of clean.” The robust sales of scented cleaning and laundry products tell researchers that consumers are learning, and they believe that if their laundry and home smell a certain way, then they’re clean.

Marketing Clean Scents

A pleasant fragrance is usually of top importance in the consumer’s mind when purchasing cleaning products. Furthermore, consumers frequently cite that a pleasant fragrance makes the tasks of laundry and cleaning easier and more enjoyable.

Some companies that sell laundry detergents base nearly all of their advertising on the popularity of their fragrances. They’ve also embraced the use of essential oils for new scents blends such as lavender and chamomile, eucalyptus and mint, or orange and grapefruit. Detergent manufacturers continuously work on formulas for new or improved scents, as well as how to make them linger on fabrics, all in the name of cleanliness.

I’m betting that most of us have felt the agony of accidentally shrinking a favorite garment in the wash or dryer because we forgot to read the laundry care instructions on the garment. You may have even resigned yourself to dumping that shrunken item into the donation pile after cursing the gods or eating your feelings. And, while I can’t change what happened in the past, I can give you a simple solution to avoid such a catastrophe in the future!

Today I’ll be sharing a simple 3-step method you can use to actually unshrink your clothes. I’ve used this method dozens of times at this point (because I never seem to learn from my laundry mistakes), and it has worked like a charm every time. :-). So let’s get started!

Here’s what you’ll need:

• Bucket or sink
• Baby shampoo
• 2 large, clean bath towels

How To Unshrink Clothes Quickly And Easily

To unshrink most clothing, soak the item in a solution of lukewarm water and a capful of baby shampoo. Gently knead the item with your hands to help relax the fibers. Gently pat or roll dry with a towel, and then use your hands to gently stretch the item out to its original size. Then air dry.

Step 1 – Soak in a Solution of Lukewarm Water & Baby Shampoo

Fill a sink (or bucket) with lukewarm water then add a capful of baby shampoo to the water.

Place the item you want to unshrink into the sudsy water. Let it soak for a minute or two, then gently knead the item with your hands to help relax the fibers.

Step 2 – Absorb Water From Shrunken Clothing with a Towel

Lay out one of your big, clean bath towels and lay the clothing item flat out on top of it.

Roll the towel up from one end so the clothing item is wrapped inside. Press on the towel gently to absorb the excess water, then unroll the towel.

Step 3 – Gently Stretch & Reshape Clothing

Grab your second clean bath towel and lay the damp piece of clothing out on it.

Use your hands to gently stretch the item out to its original size. Finally, leave the clothing item on the towel and allow it to air dry completely.

A Note On Rising: You’ll notice the directions don’t mention anything about rinsing out the shampoo water. That’s because in my experience, this process doesn’t leave very much soap behind in the clothes, and the little soap that does remain seems to help keep the fibers pliable during the stretching process. So I see no reason to fret over it!

BONUS: Tips For Unshrinking Specific Materials

When it comes to unshrinking, some materials are more forgiving than others. Here’s what you can expect according to what material your item is made out of:

Cotton & Cotton Blends

These are probably the easiest materials to unshrink. Follow the steps I outlined above and you’ll have your item back to its original shape in no time!

Cashmere, Wool, & Other Animal Fibers

It’s a little more difficult to stretch these materials back out, especially with tight knits, but this method can still work well. Try gently pulling and stretching the garment while it’s still submerged in the sudsy water.

Synthetics (Polyester, Rayon, Etc.)

This method can works really well on synthetics, but it’s easy to go overboard and stretch them too far. Just be very gentle when stretching them back into shape.

Denim

To unshrink clothes like denim and denim blends, try a different approach. First, put the jeans on and sit in a lukewarm bath for about 15 minutes. Then dry yourself off so the jeans aren’t dripping wet, and move around in them for about an hour afterwards.

So how can you make sure that you don’t have to do away with so many of your precious belongings? Keep reading to discover all the ways you ruin your clothing, plus what you can do instead to keep your garments safe.

1. You store your leather goods near the window.

Leather likes the sun just about as much as Dracula does—that is to say, not very much. Too much exposure to direct sunlight and your leather goods will suffer from “premature aging, discoloration, drying, and cracking,” notes leather company Buffalo Jackson Trading Co. Instead, keep your leather items away from sunny windows and heating vents. Putting them there might seem like a smart way to dry them out, but it’ll make the leather brittle in the long run.

2. You leave your gym clothes in your gym bag for hours after your workout.

Never, ever let your damp gym clothes sit in a wad in your gym bag or laundry basket. Why? “Moisture is the enemy,” says Sarah Brunette, brand manager of housecleaning company Molly Maid. Not only will doing this create a rancid smell that’s difficult to get rid of, but it’s also a recipe for bacteria growth and mildew. A similar situation can also occur if you store items in humid environments, so make sure to always keep your clothing someplace clean, dark, and cool.

3. You don’t stuff your handbags before storing them.

Storing your handbags flat in the closet is a surefire way to ruin their shape. To make sure that your expensive bags stay in pristine condition, fill them to the brim with T-shirts or other articles of clothing before carefully placing them in their dust bags and setting them off to the side.

4. You stuff your clothes in your drawers.

“Incorrect storage can ultimately ruin clothing,” notes Brunette. Not only does this messy method cause chaos when you’re getting dressed in the morning, but when it comes to certain materials like leather, it also creates creases and wrinkles that are impossible to eliminate.

5. You cook without an apron.

When you get home from a long day of work and need to somehow get dinner on the table in under 30 minutes, the last thing on your mind is throwing on an apron. However, if you’re making something that easily stains, such as pasta Bolognese or beet salad, then taking a few extra seconds to put on an apron could be the very thing that saves your blouse. Aprons are designed to shield your clothes from the oil, grease, and sauce that tends to splatter in the cooking process—so do yourself (and your clothes) a favor and put one on.

6. You use hot water for every load of laundry.

Though hot water is the most effective when it comes to cleaning clothes, not every load of laundry warrants it. Seeing as hot water is more likely to shrink and fade items faster, it should “only be used on heavily soiled or odorous items made from strong fiber like linen, cotton, and during synthetics such as polyester,” according to clothing care brand The Laundress.

7. You hang items that should be folded.

Hanging your big, bulky sweaters will only stretch them out and potentially even create permanent indentations in the shoulder area. So, when the dog days of summer arrive and it’s time to stow away your sweaters, make sure that you’re safely storing them in drawers or on shelves rather than in the closet on hangers. (Pro tip: You can use under-the-bed storage bins to save space and keep your sweaters far away from moths and other creepy crawlers in the attic!)

8. You don’t zipper things before you throw them in the wash.

When left undone, zippers have a bad habit of getting caught on delicate fabrics like lace and ruining them in the wash. “Pieces of clothing are more likely to get snagged with clasps and hooks,” says Brunette.

Thankfully, all you have to do to avoid this is to make sure that all of your clothing items with zippers are zipped up before tossing them in with your other garments. Brunette also recommends turning items with clasps and zippers inside out “to prevent holes and tears.” Easy as pie!

9. And you don’t Velcro them.

Velcro is just as dangerous to your delicates as zippers. If and when you throw things in the laundry with Velcro, make sure that no pieces of the clingy fibers are left loose.

10. You haphazardly throw detergent into the washing machine.

Using both too little and too much detergent can pose problems when it comes to doing your laundry. As cleaning service Classic Cleaners explains, using too little laundry detergent results in “laundry that may not be as white or as bright as it should be,” while using too much can result in an insufficient rinse and leftover detergent residue.

11. You use fabric softener on your workout clothes.

Fabric softener isn’t meant to be used on every item you wash. Take your gym clothes, for instance. According to clothing care company Rinse, this product “breaks down the elasticity in stretchy fabrics like nylon and spandex,” both of which are commonly used to make athletic wear. What’s more, “it also creates a barrier on the garment,” which means these specialized fabrics aren’t able to wick moisture away from your skin as efficiently as possible. That could make you (and your clothes) feel and smell worse.

12. You dry your workout gear in the dryer.

Another way you ruin your workout gear is by drying it in the dryer, particularly if you’re prone to using the highest heat settings. Rinse notes that the heat from the dryer “can damage technical fabrics and cause your clothes to change in shape,” so always opt for air drying when it comes to your sports bras and spandex leggings.

13. You don’t check your pockets before you throw things in the laundry.

Coins. Receipts. Wrappers. All of these things are in your pockets at any given moment, and all of these things also have the potential to ruin not just your clothes, but your laundry machine as well. Avoid ink runoff and soggy paper debris by double-checking your pockets before you turn the laundry on.

14. You let stains sit.

The longer you let a stain sit, the harder it is to get out. Whether a pen exploded in your pocket or you spilled some red wine on your new white dress, make sure to throw your soiled item in the wash immediately in order to avoid a permanent mark.

15. You use wire hangers.

Don’t hold onto those wire hangers from the dry cleaner just to save a few bucks. Brunette notes that these hangers “may rust or stretch out fabrics.”

16. Pull or snip at a loose thread on a garment with your bare hands.

Never pull or snip at a loose thread on a garment with your bare hands. Doing so can cause more harm to your article of clothing, potentially even damaging it beyond repair. If you do find a snagged thread, take it to a professional so they can fix it the right way: with a needle and some string.

17. You don’t use a lingerie bag for your delicate undergarments.

If you’re not using a mesh lingerie bag for your delicates and undergarments, then you’re doing something wrong. As Classic Cleaners explains, this inexpensive laundry accessory prevents nicks and tears in your delicates, maintains the shape of your bras, keeps socks from getting lost, and more. It’s a small investment that goes a long way when it comes to keeping your clothing in pristine condition.

18. You overuse your dryer.

When it comes to ways you ruin your clothing, your dryer is the number one source of damage. Though you naturally rely on this machine to rid your garments of moisture after a stint in the washer, overusing it—especially on the highest setting—can shrink your favorite items and warp them to the point that they can no longer be worn. For the best results, Classic Cleaners suggests using the low-temperature setting and air-drying whenever possible.

19. You don’t read labels.

If you’re not already reading all of your clothing items’ care labels before throwing them into the washing machine, then make sure to get into the habit of doing so. Using the handy dandy symbols on each garment’s label, you can determine everything from the ideal temperature at which to wash each garment to whether or not an item is OK to iron.

20. You don’t flip your jeans inside out before washing them.

Yes, you should always be washing your jeans inside out. According to denim brand Lee, this method is the best way to “preserve [denim’s] original color and appearance for as long as possible.”

1. Stains

If you’re in need of an all-purpose stain remover for everyday clothing stains, look no further! My very favorite stain remover is one you can make right in your own home! I’ve used it to remove all kinds of different stains, and it hasn’t failed me yet!

2. Buttons

Dab a bit of white glue on the threads of the buttons on your dress shirts. This will help prevent the threads from fraying, and will keep your buttons on longer. If you don’t have any white glue, clear nail polish works just as well!

3. Zipper Fix

If you have a pair of pants with a zipper that just won’t stay up, here’s an easy fix. Attach a key ring onto the edge of the zipper, then pull the zipper up and hook the key ring around the button of the pants. The key ring will keep the zipper in place! (You could also use a paperclip if you don’t have a key ring to spare.)

4. Static Cling

To get rid of static cling, spray the inside of your clothing with a light layer of hair spray. Another option is to run the long side of a wire hanger over the outside and inside of your clothing, or you can rub your clothes down with a dryer sheet!

5. Shrinking

Accidentally shrink a favorite piece of clothing? Follow the link below to learn my favorite trick for “unshrinking” clothes. It’s easier than you’d think!

6. Wrinkles

No time to drag out an iron and ironing board to fix a wrinkled shirt? A straightening iron works perfectly for smoothing out collar creases and minor wrinkles. It also fits between shirt buttons nicely! You can look perfectly pressed, even when you’re pressed for time. (Another option is to make my simple homemade wrinkle release spray!

7. Leather Shoes

Use the inside of a banana peel to erase scuffs on your leather shoes, then buff them to a shine with a paper towel. To erase water stains on leather shoes, use a toothbrush dipped in white vinegar.

8. Too-Tight Shoes

Use a hair dryer to help you stretch out a pair of too-tight shoes. Pull on a pair of thick socks, then put the tight shoes on too. Point your hair dryer at the shoes for a minute or two, then keep the shoes on until they cool off.

9. Glasses

Whether you’re wearing reading glasses or sunglasses, it’s really annoying to have them slipping off your face! Just grab your trusty hot glue gun to add some extra grip. Apply a line of hot glue to the inside of each arm of your glasses, near the back where they rest above your ears. When the glue dries, the glue will add some extra grip and keep them from sliding.

10. Sweat Stains

Because of the proteins present in your sweat, sweat stains on your clothing can be tricky to remove. But with the right ingredients and method, it’s easier than you’d think!

11. Shoe Polish

Remove scuffs and add serious shine to your favorite boots with my homemade shoe polish. It contains all-natural beeswax, which also helps to repel water and mud!

12. Dingy Whites

Are your whites not so white anymore? My favorite method for whitening whites is surprisingly simple, and incredibly effective – much more effective than just using bleach!

13. Pilling

I wrote a whole post about ways to get rid of pesky pilling on sweaters and other clothing.

14. Sneakers

Clean the hard surfaces of dirty sneakers with a magic eraser. It’s an easy way to make shoes look brand new!

15. Suede

You can clean dirt off of suede shoes with a nail file, stale bread crust or pencil eraser.

16. Hems

Hold up the hem of your pants or skirt in an emergency using paper clips. For a more permanent solution, check out this post about how to hem jeans while still keeping the original hem.

17. Pantyhose

Use clear nail polish to stop a run in a pair of pantyhose. You can also prevent the run in the first place by spraying pantyhose with a bit of hair spray before wearing them.

18. Ink Stains

Ink stains don’t have to be a death sentence for your clothes. You just need to know what stain removal methods work best on ink! Get the details below.

19. Bleeding Denim

A new pair of jeans can quickly become a nuisance if the dye starts transferring to your hands, furniture, and other clothes. Use the methods in the post below to lock the dye into your denim and stop the messy dye transfer.

20. Stuck Zipper

To keep zippers from sticking (or to loosen one that’s already stuck), lightly rub the zipper’s teeth with a small piece of wax paper. The wax from the paper will help the zipper move smoothly, and reduce the chances of it getting stuck again.

1. Sassy Collar On A Plain T-Shirt

Sassy halter collars can jazz up a plain old t-shirt in no time. So, dig into your stash of scrap fabric, or find some lace or ribbon.

Make sure you sew on a patch on both sides and not just around the neck for the best possible outcome!

2. No-Sew DIY Cut-Shirt

Plain old shirts don’t have to be boring. With a pair of scissors, you can upcycle your old shirts into something trendy and cool.

3. Bleached Stencil Shirts

Do you want this bleached shirt with that stenciled pattern on it?

First, lay out some newspapers before you get started because this DIY project might get messy. Next, you’ll need a spray bottle to mix a solution of one part bleach and one part water.

Please be careful when you’re handling bleach!

4. DIY Ruffle Shirt

I love a good one-shoulder shirt, don’t you? But what’s really cute here are those ruffles.

Would you believe me if I told you that this girly shirt used to be a basic men’s sized shirt?

Now all you have to do is grab your fabric scissors and the roll of elastic band. In under 30 minutes, you’ll have a new shirt to wear on your next night out.

5. Criss Cross Shirt

With summer just around the corner, you’ll want to bring out your summer clothes from hibernation. T-shirts are a staple, but they don’t need to be a monotonous staple.

Here’s a criss-cross cut to try out on your own tees. It’s not as complicated as it looks, but you’ll want a good pair of fabric scissors and some tailor’s chalk.

6. Workout Shirt

You can never have too many shirts for when you hit the gym. But I always feel like my gym clothes are baggy and unattractive.

If I had any toned muscles, they’d hardly be flattering in these old rags. Nothing says chic like this casual racerback t-shirt to add some character and flair to a plain old baggy gym shirt.

Don’t forget to save a strip of the fabric to make a matching headband!

7. T-Shirt Market Bag

I hate having to pay those extra cents to buy plastic bags at the grocery store. They’re such a waste and not at all eco-friendly or biodegradable.

I think this upcycled bag out of old t-shirts is the perfect solution. You get to re-use them; just pop them into the washer, and they come out clean as a whistle.

Plus, they’re sustainable and eco-friendly: a win-win!

8. Recycled Skull T-Shirt

Is Halloween around the corner? No? So you just want to wear a skull t-shirt? You know what, that’s actually pretty cute.

Let’s get started. Find a washable marker to help you draw the eye sockets, nose holes, and that toothy grin. Next, find your pair of sturdy fabric scissors and get cutting.

It’s a little risque to wear on its own, so don’t forget to layer it with another t-shirt.

9. Boxy Crop Top From An Oversized Tee

Crop tops on a summer’s day are as perfect as hot chocolate is on a cold winter’s evening. So grab the measuring tape and find a flat work area.

If you’ve got a t-shirt with a design upfront, be careful not to cut it off halfway. You can always give your crop top some curvy layers if it means you don’t distort the design.

Hey, why not go for the frayed-crop look? I bet they’d look perfect with denim cut-offs.

10. Out With The Old, In With The New and Upcycled

I’m all for t-shirt dresses and crop tops. If you tell me that I don’t have to spend a pretty penny to get either one, I’m all in.

Do you have some color-coordinated designs in mind and a flair for bringing those colors together to make a modern and chic outfit?

Then this is the perfect upscaling project for you.

11. Off-Shoulder Eyelet Top

I honestly can’t believe that you can make a gorgeous blouse from an old black tee, but there you have it.

You’ll need to buy this kit to help you with that row of eyelets running along the neck of this shirt. You’ll also need to save the scraps of fabric you cut off your shirt.

12. Peek-A-Boo Lace T-Shirt

A lace-sectioned bodice does wonders for a boring old tee. And, here’s how you do exactly that.

It all comes down to the lace you use. For just five bucks, you’ve got everything you’ll need for this DIY refashioning project.

Why not give a thin trim of lace around the armholes while you’re at it?

13. No-Sew Bow-Sleeve T-Shirt

I’ve always held a secret fascination with bow sleeves. They’re such a cute way to turn a plain old t-shirt into a fashion statement.

14. T-Shirt To Tank Top

This project is all about the skill you have with cutting fabric. But, at the end of the day, even if your edges are frayed, just call it grungy-chic, and you’d still have a fabulous tank top.

For the best possible cut and clean edges, use a sewing machine. Take a few safety pink or fabric pins and pin the flaps in place while you sew the edges and seams.

15. DIY Off The Shoulder T-Shirt

Here’s another no-sew reconstruction project for you to try: off-the-shoulder t-Shirts! I love off-shoulder blouses, but I never find that right fit, and they never stay, well, off the shoulders.

Perhaps making one, or rather, upcycling one from an old shirt is the solution.

16. DIY No-Sew Crop Top

Crop tops are really in vogue right now, just like upcycled clothes. So, when you’re choosing a shirt to crop for this project, just make sure you pick something flowy.

It’ll help you get that perfect amount of sway when you move and does wonders to keep you cool on a hot summer afternoon.

17. DIY Macrame Halter Tee

Check out that snazzy back on that t-shirt. Who would have thought that you could do macrame on the back of a tee?

You’ll need a grid-cutting mat to help you measure and cut off the back of your tee into thread-like strips.

Maybe, just maybe, with this trendy tee, I’d be motivated to hit the gym.

18. DIY Muscle Tank

I might not have muscles, but by God, I’ll have a dozen muscle t-shirts in every color possible in my closet. Also, this one has a no-sew pattern, doesn’t require elaborate cutting, and has no long-drawn-out sewing project.

All you need are a pair of scissors, measuring tape, fabric glue, tailor’s chalk, and one soft, billowy t-shirt. But, of course, you’ve already got all that in your sewing kit.

19. DIY Rug From T-Shirt Strips

Forget making shirts out of shirts. I’m moving on and trading up to these funky floor rugs. The possibilities are endless.

I can already see it: dozens of coasters, pot holders, table runners, placemats, rugs, and…maybe even a full-sized throw! If it means tearing up all the shirts in my closet, then so be it.

20. No-Sew Tote Bag

Don’t you think these tote bags are perfect for taking with you to the beach? They’re big and roomy: you can slip in a couple of beach towels, sunscreen, some snacks, and a good book.

Speaking of books, why not use them as book bags? If you’ve got t-shirts with funky images printed on them, or beautiful patterns, I bet they’d look even better as a bag.

According to Laura Goodman, senior scientist at Procter & Gamble, you have basic chemistry to thank for these stains’ resilience. Most greases and oils are semi-solid or solid at room temperature, which means removal requires warm or hot water. It also depends on the fabric: Goodman says synthetic fibers like polyester are especially tough to treat because grease and oil are attracted to them. And since synthetic fibers are becoming more and more popular, you may find yourself struggling with these annoying stains more often.

And yet, removing oil stains from clothes definitely isn’t impossible if you time it right. The key, Goodman says, is to act as quickly as possible—ideally, as soon as the stain happens. Once it dries or sets, that annoying oil stain will be a lot harder to get out.

If you’re hoping to get an oily stain out of your clothes—whether fresh or set-in—here is everything you need to know, according to laundry experts.

How to Use Baking Soda to Remove Oil Stains

Laundry expert Patric Richardson, owner of the Minneapolis-based boutique Mona Williams, says baking soda works by pulling oil out of fabric and into itself. If you can’t wash something—like a heavy coat or a piece of furniture—Richardson recommends using baking soda as a first line of defense before you treat the stain. Here’s how:

• Remove any excess oil with a paper towel or cloth.
• Sprinkle baking soda on the affected fabric and allow it to sit for 24 hours.
• After a day passes, vacuum or brush the baking soda away.
• Spray the affected area with a vinegar and water solution.
• Scrub with soap and a brush, then rinse.
• Repeat the process if the stain remains.

How to Use Chalk to Remove Oil Stains

Technically, Richardson says, chalk should remove oil from your clothes the same way baking soda does: by literally pulling the oil from the fabric and into itself. But he doesn’t recommend chalk for large or set-in stains. Instead, try this trick on small grease splatters, like if you’re cooking and a dot of grease ends up on your shirt.

• Remove any excess food and oil from the garment with a clean paper towel.
• Cover the entire spot with chalk, allowing a few minutes for the oil to completely absorb.
• Wash the soiled item as soon as possible after the stain occurs.
• An oil stain on a blue t-shirt, surrounded by cleaning materials like dish soap, cloth, and a piece of cardboard

How to Remove Set-In Oil Stains, Step by Step

Set-in oil stains can be intimidating—and, admittedly, they do require some work (and the right ingredients) to remove. If you didn’t have a chance to remove your oil or grease stain immediately after it happened, follow these steps:

1. Work on the stain while the fabric is dry.

It’s not a good idea to rinse your garment with water before you work on the stain. “It’s much easier to work on a dry fabric because oil and water don’t mix,” Richardson says. “So when you wet the fabric, what happens is the water coats all the fabric around the oil so you don’t have anywhere to move the oil away.”

2. Place a piece of cardboard behind the stain.

Putting a piece of cardboard between layers of your garment will help you avoid transferring any oil to other parts of the fabric. Upcycle something around the house, like an old cereal carton or delivery box.

3. Blot the stain with a clean, dry cloth.

You want to try and remove as much excess oil as possible. Blot carefully to avoid spreading the oil to unaffected parts of the fabric. If you don’t have a cloth, a napkin, tissue, or paper towel will also work.

4. Apply dish soap to the stain.

Liquid dish soap is effective at cutting through grease on clothes, just like it does on your dishes. As a pre-treatment, apply a few drops of liquid dish soap to the stain and let it soak in, rubbing gently with fingers, a clean, soft-bristled toothbrush, or a cloth to help work it in. You’ll want to let the dish soap soak in for about five minutes.

5. Rinse with warm water, then launder as usual.

Wait five minutes after applying the dish soap, then rinse with warm water. Wash the item in hot water with your normal detergent plus either bleach (for white items) or a color-safe laundry booster (like OxiClean or The Laundress’ Bleach Alternative, for colored items).

6. Air- or line-dry your item.

Since grease stains are hard to see on wet garments, Goodman recommends waiting to machine dry until you’re sure the spot is actually gone. If any stain remains after air drying, repeat the dish soap treatment and launder again in hot water. Don’t machine-dry your item because the high temperature could set the stain, making it even more difficult to remove.

Can you remove grease stains after washing and drying?

It’s not the ideal scenario, but Richardson says you can remove oil stains on fabric even after it’s washed and dried, it’ll just require an additional step. The heat involved in a dryer cycle essentially “bakes” the oil into the fabric, which can result in discoloration. So you’ll need to pre-treat it again, but this time with an enzyme-based cleaner and your normal pre-treatment. “I just treat the stain again like I did the first time, let the pre-treatment dry, then use the enzyme-based treatment,” he says. “Then I’d just launder again as normal.”

Does WD-40 remove oil stains from clothes?

Strangely enough, WD-40 can remove oil stains from fabric. In general, Richardson says, oily will remove oily. “The problem is, then you have to get the WD-40 out, too, since it will sometimes leave its own residue,” he says.

Since WD-40 isn’t all that eco-friendly of a stain-removal option, Richardson suggests using an oil-based soap instead, whether dish soap (just note dish soap is acidic and can be hard on clothes), Murphy’s Oil Soap, or Stain Solution from The Laundress.

Are you taking full advantage of this good laundry habit?

If you routinely pull your clean laundry from the washing machine and toss it right in the dryer, it may be time to break the habit. There are ample reasons for letting nature take its course and air-drying your garments and linens, and enjoying as a bonus that fresh scent and feel you can only get from the great outdoors. Consider air-drying clothes if you want:

To save money and energy

Air-drying will greatly reduce utility costs; after your central heating and air conditioning system, your electric dryer is perhaps the biggest energy sucker in your home, representing, on average, around six percent of your home’s energy consumption each year.

Your clothes fit properly

Ever put a favorite pair of perfectly fitting jeans into the dryer only to pull out something about a size too small to zip? The appliance is notorious for shrinking fabrics, particularly absorbent ones, such as cotton, wool, rayon, and linen. As high heat and tumbling action suck away moisture, fabric fibers pull together tightly and curl up in response, resulting in clothes that no longer fit.

To lessen wardrobe wear and tear.

Air-drying is much easier on your clothes. The combo of heat and tumbling wears away at the strength of fabric fibers, causing tiny bits to break away–that’s what creates the fuzzy stuff in your dryer’s lint trap. Natural fibers, particularly cotton and wool, are more prone to shedding lint than synthetic fabrics, but both are damaged during the drying process, which eventually shows up in the form of thinned-out towels and worn edges along with your clothing.

If you’re ready to give air-drying a try, first check local ordinances (neighborhoods with homeowner associations may forbid the practice). Then follow these dos and don’ts for great results.

DO keep your clothesline clean.

Wipe your outdoor clothesline clean of dust and bird droppings before hanging freshly laundered garments, linens, and towels. When removing dry duds, don’t leave the clothespins clipped to the line between uses; they’ll rust or get dirty, and that can stain your clothes. Instead, take down the pins and store them in a clothespin bag—Veamor makes a handy one that clips right to your clothesline, belt loop, or drying rack.

DON’T forget to check pollen and weather reports.

If you or a family member suffers with hay fever or other pollen-based allergies, it’s wise to avoid drying clothing outside on days when pollen counts are high. Most weather apps give this information, but if yours doesn’t, enter your zip code on Pollen.com for your area’s daily pollen forecast.

DO start with the largest items.

If hanging sheets, towels, and clothing on the same clothesline, start with the sheets, then hang the towels, and hang your clothing last. That way, you can make the most efficient use of the space. And leave at least an inch or so between items for good airflow, which speeds up the drying process.

DON’T hang sweaters or other heavy garments.

Forget about hanging your knit sweaters from a clothesline or indoor rack; that will lead to saggy shoulders and misshapen sleeves. Instead, lay sweaters, jackets, and heavy knit shirts on a mesh, flat drying rack like the one from OXO Good Grips (available on Amazon). Turn garments over once or twice as they dry to speed up the process and maintain even drying, as moisture tends to settle at the bottom of heavy fabrics.

DO give clothes a shake before air-drying them.

To stave off the stiffness that can occur on air-dried clothing and linens, give each piece a good shake before hanging it on the line or drying rack. Shaking fabric fresh out of the washing machine helps fluff up its fibers to prevent stiffness and keeps it from clinging to itself. And fabric should be fully stretched out—not crumpled or clinging—to keep wrinkles at bay.

DON’T forget a fan if air-drying indoors.

A gentle breeze is perfect for air-drying clothing, as it whisks away moisture quickly and evenly, and creates good airflow around the wet laundry. Simulate a breeze for an indoor clothesline or rack by turning on a ceiling fan or portable fan in the same room as your laundry, or opening the windows.

DO hang laundry properly.

Hanging wet laundry properly helps it to dry as quickly and wrinkle-free as possible.

• Pants: Line up the inner seams and then pin them to the clothesline or drying rack by the hems, not the waistband. As the slightly heavier waistband hangs down, it will exert a bit of tension on the fabric, helping pull away wrinkles.
• Knits: Pin knit tee shirts, skirts, etc. upside down, as the thicker fabric of the hem isn’t as likely to sag or show clip marks as the shoulders.
• Woven shirts: Ideally, you’d dry these hangers, but if using clothespins, clip the shirts by the bottom hems and cuffs.
• Small garments: Socks, underwear, babies or children’s clothing, and swimsuits aren’t generally heavy enough to sag when damp, so hang them in whatever position makes most effective use of your drying rack or clothesline space.
• Sheets: Fold in half and then pin to the clothesline by the corners. Add an extra clip or two in the middle for better security on breezy days. Flip the sheets halfway through the drying process to release moisture that’s gathered at the bottom of the fabric.
• Towels: Pin by the corners for a clothesline, or fold evenly over a drying rack. Either way, they will dry faster if you flip them once the top feels dry, but the bottom is still damp.

DON’T dry brights and darks in direct sunlight.

Direct, intense sunlight breaks down the dyes used on fabrics, and leads to fading. When air-drying dark or bright garments outside, the rack or clothesline should be in a shaded but warm spot, preferably with a slight breeze for better airflow.

DO let the sun bleach lights.

Conversely, take advantage of the sun to help bleach out white clothing and linens by setting these fabrics in full-sun, slightly breezy locations. Full sun is also the best spot for air-drying socks and underwear, as the sun’s UV rays quite effectively kill the bacteria that cause odor on these types of garments.

DON’T air-dry down garments.

When wet, down tends to form into clumps. Dry your down-filled jackets, vests, and comforters in the dryer, preferably with some clean tennis balls, as the tumbling actions helps restore down to a fully fluffy state. Air-drying these types of garments can leave them lumpy or misshapen.

DO fold laundry as you remove it from the line.

To keep your clean, dry clothes looking good, fold them as you pull them from the drying rack or clothesline, and then put them away immediately. Letting garments sit in the laundry basket encourages wrinkles.

DON’T be impatient.

Unless you’re hanging your laundry outside on a summer scorcher, it’s generally going to take longer for clothes to air-dry than in your machine. While it’s hard to generalize about how long it will take your laundry to air-dry—fabric type, air temperature, and presence or absence of wind all play a part—expect it to take two to four hours for most types of fabric on a pleasantly warm day with a light breeze. Just remember to never put away damp clothes or linens, which would invite mold and mildew.